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Not to mention easy access to cold water and flushing toilets 😉

For us who can get outside, it’s wonderful. Not everyone has that option. Indoor climbing has really established itself as its own discipline in the past 10 years.

I love enjoying outdoor climbing, but it's pretty inaccessible to a lot of people without the same physical abilities I enjoy. It denigrates the athleticism and skill of people who don't share your capabilities to call outdoor climbing "real" climbing and indoor climbing not real.

I am old af, but growing up i got into climbing because I was already outside in the woods near a rock so I started climbing them out of boredom. I didn’t know I’d like it so much :-)

These are really great points Lara, thanks for adding them! And I too agree that many commercial gyms will grade climbs below V6 softer than what you find outdoors. Which can lead to safety issues for newer climbers going outdoors. Thanks for listening to the episode and for your support!

All good points, but if in some gyms grades are softer, in others grades are harder.

@@biomorphic Absolutely! I visited Chicago not long ago and was flashing grades above what I can do at my home Vancouver gym. Then there's the famously brutal B-pump.

@@larathompson1981 I will try B-pump this year, because I'll be traveling to Japan.

Thanks so much Michael, tell your friends :)

Hernias? That sounds terrible!

Haha true! Cramps are usually an indication that the tissue hasn’t been that short in some time. Cramping is uncomfortable but also okay if it happens. The more you do it, the better the cramps get

Heya! Yes I do! Would you like to set up a time for a consultation?

For climbers, I like once a week, after a shorter climbing session, 3-4 sets of 4-6 reps. Heavy enough to keep good form, leaving 2-3 reps left in the tank on each set. I typically don’t work from % 1RM because the body shows up differently each day. I prefer a more flexible approach to weight choice.

Yes I am so excited for moderates in Squamish!!

😂 yes, a struggle for me always!!!

Beautiful! Climbing brings so many gifts, no matter when you started. Thanks for listening and sharing

Thanks Alan!

😂 you gotta get it in where ever you can!

Yeah totally, for some folks, there is a point where injuries continue to happen. We’ve helped athletes overcome this by tweaking training volume/intensity and movement efficiency. But as you mentioned, it could also be style of climbing!! If it’s always your fingers, maybe focus much more on technique, which could take more load off the fingers.

Nice! Sounds like you’re on the right track! Check out my Peter Pans video for foot cutting. All the best!

@@MercedesPollmeier thanks :) i will do that

Totally. This will definitely help!

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Classic and ages well

You’re welcome! And thank you!

Isometrics allow for high levels of muscle activation without causing as much muscle damage that we see in concentric and eccentric movements. This makes it also easier to recover from. I tend to see greater increases of strength in a shorter period of time. You can also target specific weak angles in the pull-up, or “sticking points.” Or maybe you want to get stronger at lock offs in climbing, and we know isometrics work very well for that. We tend to see greater levels of muscle activation in isometrics. Those are just some basic reasons why I think isometrics are one of the better ways to train for pull-ups and for climbing combined. It doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do regular pull-ups. Isometrics are also great for folks who haven’t trained much, or who are returning from injury.

Thanks so much for this perspective and for sharing it. I also notice this with bouldering development. Some areas are better than others for beginners, but most areas lack the entry level climbs. Of course, there is a lot that goes into route development, but I think it would go a long way for our community if there were more accessible climbs.

Thanks!

The lats have a profound involvement in scapular movement. It pulls on the inferior angle of the scapula... Most people I train have a hard time controlling the movement of their scapula, which then produces poor pulling motions. And you must have missed the part where I demonstrate the full pulling motion, with the scapula move into elevation at the start of the pull-up. And I disagree with downward rotation and retraction being "harmful" in this movement. It's necessary to build a big and wide back. It's a move that occurs continuously in climbing and rowing as well. Obviously, dose dictates the poison. And strengthening scapula protraction and elevation is also needed in order to have a strong upper body.

Absolutely!

Glad to hear it Homa! Couldn't agree more

Yeah I can see lat strength playing a huge part here. Rows and straight arms pull downs (cable machine) will be key for you. But the isometrics, I think, are still a good place to start. You might want to favor the 120 degree hang (in the elbow) over the 90 degree. Our free course goes over those isometric positions

I’m with ya. Gratitude for what we have today is the anchor 💚

Absolutely! We’ll cover those topics in the recovery podcast. Keep it up Atsu! It’s great to hear from ya!

Thank you!

yes we will work on this as we get more traffic. We appreciate the feedback.

Thank you! We’ll try to move faster but you can always speed it up and listen to it X 1.5, something I do to all youtube videos.

The field of sport science has held this belief for quite some time, that endurance and muscle fatigue take a long time to develop their true upper limit potential. It requires more than just a research paper, and you might do better to read textbooks, or a wide collection of research papers. Some textbooks to refer to are: Essentials of Strength Training and Conditioning, Supertraining. Here's one paper on Muscle fatigue journals.physiology.org/doi/pdf/10.1152/physrev.00015.2007#:~:text=Allen%20DG%2C%20Lamb%20GD%2C%20Westerblad%20H.&text=%E2%80%94Repeated%2C%20intense%20use%20of%20muscles,ions%2C%20and%20many%20intracellular%20metabolites. The aerobic system is the most adaptable system when it comes to "room for improvement" since there are so many components to the system. This means there are many ways each of these components can be improved. CV/heart function, uptake, utilization. For this reason, it takes time and repetition. Power endurance, especially when you are training your upper limit, is expensive to maintain in the body. Which is why we refer to power endurance as the "icing on the cake" and the cake itself being endurance/capacity. Of course, we know that if you don't use it, you lose it, but if you have heavily developed endurance and strength systems, they won't take as long to "drop off" if you don't train them for 4-8 weeks. I'll pass this on to Steve. We can definitely talk more about this in a follow up episode at the end of the series.

​@@MercedesPollmeier Thanks for the detailed response. That makes sense to me. How would this apply to boulderers?

I'll make sure this is part of the follow up Q&A. Here's my very quick response. As boulderers, we will want to spend much of our time in Gear 1, doing a few powerful moves in a row with plenty of rest between reps, and then supplementing with gear 3, matching the training duration to the goal you want to achieve. You can mesh some gear 2, just making sure not to overtax the pump (the accumulation of metabolic byproducts). Thanks for the engagement and questions.

I hear ya. Our next podcast on strength training will be helpful to you. Without knowing too much about what your training looks like, the best way to gauge that you’re not overdoing it is to leave gas in the tank before your session is over. A word I like to use is ‘snappy’ by the end of most sessions. This might not feel intuitive, but our goal is consistency, and you’ll get more out of showing up fresh and consistent over a long period of time instead of having a lot of crappy feeling days, and possibly losing consistency. And you don’t need much to get strong, suffering isn’t the answer :)

@@MercedesPollmeier Looking forward to it! Wrong side of 60 so need to do a better job of spreading my exercise week out more evenly to optimise recovery times.

I don’t know what your time tables look like of course but speaking for myself, I’m on usually 5 days a week (3 climbing & 2 lifting). Spacing rest days is important, and I try to time my climbs/workouts so that I’m usually getting roughly 20-24 hours between activities, so that’s a good thing to be mindful of. Also find a good and impactful warmup routine. I show up to the gym some days feeling dead but if I really focus in my warmup I end up feeling much more composed and healthy. Good luck!

Awesome! I love this too, it's a daily move for me.

Thanks Keith! Me too!!! Let’s climb and find joy in climbing as long as possible :)

I think we agree here, but most people who use a weight vest aren't often concerned about better technique, they are usually chasing strength and fatigue. If it is technique focus, they wouldn't climb to failure, and would be more mindful about the approach. I see too many people try to make climbing drills feel physically harder without much intention. And this leads to some sad injuries. We can get better at climbing, decrease the risk of injury and have fun without having to smash our bodies.